New climbs archive

Descriptions of all new climbs in Elenydd, as well as feedback on existing climbs/problems, can be found here. Note that these submissions have been provided by the first ascentionists and consequently, in contrast to those in the Central Wales - Elenydd guidebook, none have been moderated for accuracy, grade nor perceived quality. 


If known, details of any significant changes to existing climbs/problems will also be noted in this archive. In all cases, the more information provided, the better, particularly the relationship (if any) between new climbs and existing climbs.


First ascent details for new climbs in Y Rhinogydd, Cadair Idris, Rhobell Fawr, Yr Aran, Yr Arenig and Y Berwynion are also welcomed, as well as feedback on existing climbs/problems and all other aspects of climbing (e.g. access) in Central/Mid Wales. If appropriate, such information may be shared with Mid Wales Climbing and BMC Cymru.


Please submit all information either via CONTACT US on our Home Page or alternatively by email to: steepstoneclimbing@gmail.com  


New route details may also be submitted to UKClimbing (UKC) if desired, but note that details submitted exclusively to UKC may not necessarily be seen by Steep Stone and consequently may not be definitively archived here.

CENTRAL WALES ~ ELENYDD

BORTH


45 Raspberry Ripple ** f7B (Borth Main Area: page 48 in the guidebook). 

This has significantly changed due to the loss of a large block that made up the starting hand holds. This adds a couple of more desperate moves to get to the arete, now making the sequence harder than the original. Possibly f7B+ now?


Borth Slippy f6B+

Roughly 250m down the beach to the south from the caravan park approach. A steep compression line on pinches. Start sitting with the lowest part of the slopey rail in the left hand and a small sidepull under the roof for the right. Power up the nose to good holds and trend rightwards to a slightly loose top out.

FA A Morris 22.5.18


Borth Slippy Righthand f6C

Start sitting as for Borth Slippy and execute a brief low traverse rightwards, using head height holds, before gaining a good flake and topping out up the steep groove.

FA A Morris 22.5.18


Heel Hook Traverse f6C

A lip traverse of the block directly in front of Tusk. Pull on on slopers as far left as possible, with a rounded concretion structure for a foot and travel right with immediate difficulty. At the far end, pull over the top to a good jug and mantle out. The obvious foot platform is not in.

FA A Morris 4.8.18


Old Boy f6C

A one mover on the block set just back from Heel Hook Traverse. Pull on with a pinch left hand undercut and a close sidepull with a smeary gib for a foot. Slap to the top and top out. The big foot platform is out, as is the arete. https://www.instagram.com/p/BmGVa6uF0Ry/

FA A Morris 4.8.18


Sick Boy f7A

A desperate old school one mover to the right of Old Boy. Pull on on tiny, sharp edge on the face and slap to the top with great difficulty.

FA A Morris 4.8.18


CASTELL BACH


† * The Little Castle E5 6b

The steep line to the right of To the Keep. A committing move to a good jug up and left ends the hard climbing. The exit is nice and solid.

FA G X Percival, solo, 17.8.18


CWM TYDU


Fin Wall


Pin-Cock 14m HVS 4c (low in grade) 

Traverse from the belay ledge rightwards a few metres past Yellow Findango to the next groove. Pull through overlap, then continue up the steep rib above. [Photo >]

FA N Taylor, L Burgess 9.8.18 

''Pincock was what the Gurung mates of Narayan called porcupines and they borrowed our head torches one night when one was seen near the village. They didnt catch it; we were pleased because it would have got eaten.'' 

Mating Caterpillars 16m VS 4a 

From the belay traverse 6m rightwards to a good foot ledge, pull up the short wall then move diagonally right until close to the corner. Follow line of weakness back lefwards beneath the roof. [Photo >]

FA N Taylor, L Burgess 9.8.18 


 

PEN BILIS 


Wild Walks Buttress


Nepali Flat 25m VS 4b

Left of the steep finishing wall of Cam ar ol Cam and Vertigo Games is a protruding neb (nose) at the top of the cliff (midway between lines of climbs 9 and 10 on the topo). Start directly below this at a faint crackline, through the calcite band then directly up the steep front of the neb with good protection. The rock is sound.

FA N Taylor, L Burgess 4.9.18

''Nepali flat was what our Nepali guide Narayan called a path that was easy apart from the occasional steep bit (just like the climb).''

Elan Valley

CRAIG CABAN COCH


Canopy Buttress


†  * Hugan Fach Goch E1 5b 

The route is on the section of rock to the right of the main overhang on the same wall as Canopy Route. Start approximately 6 metres to the left of Canopy Route and about 3 metres right of the very distinctive prow that runs most of the way up the crag. Climb the groove trending up and right to a ledge at the break. Traverse left to the edge of the prow. Follow another groove up and right to another ledge. Step left and gain the small pinnacle attached to the prow beneath the overhang. Make committing moves upwards onto the shield of rock using hidden holds and on to the large ledges. A satisfying climb.

FA P Blackburn, P Tucker  28.7.18


†  Shake It Off 20m HVS 5a

4 metres left of Canopy Route is an open, clean, blank, rightwards slanting groove. Start just left of a ground level shield of rock; part detached and shaped like a Rhino's head (obvious!). Climb the steep off balance slanting groove past dodgy flakes above the rhino to gain a small spike(sling) below a good handrail ledge with good gear (wires/cams) at around 6m. Pull leftwards onto ledges and trend upwards and left climbing more easily on good rock with gear left of an ivy vegetated corner until below a grey/blackened, cracked rock wall. Gain the ledge on top of this taking care not to pull on three large loose blocks sitting on the ledge. Breach the headwall in a fine position using the obvious right slanting crack which eats cams.

FA P Tucker P Blackburn 28.7.18


†  * Elvis the Peregrine E3 5c 

Start at the right hand end of the Pistols at Dawn ledge and just left of the large tree in the centre of the crag. Climb the loose groove to an overlap. Follow cracks up left then a ramp back right to gain a perch beneath the overhang. Climb the groove above directly to the next overhang. Launch up the steep short prow of rock above to reach a large ledge. Step left and climb the distinctive flake crack to the top. An engaging route, steep and bold in places, some suspect rock, but generally positive holds.

FA P Blackburn, H Brown  5.8.18


CRAIG CNWCH


Bwtres Bach


†  ***Masters of Elan 8m E2 5b

The sheer, clean arete edge with a thin crack is calling all Masters to be climbed. Found between Elephants Never Forget and Y Cnwch Banana. Start direct below the arete's first bulge. Boulder the blank arête and continue with interest in balance but gearless to a tricky topout. A sole micro cam placed blindly at 2/3rds height could protect the crux finish or enjoy the solo above a few blocks.

FA P Tucker  P Blackburn 22.7.18


†  *The Scrattle Bag 10m HVS 5a

The corner groove and thin upper crack leading to a finish up heathery slabs found 1 metre right of the start of Y Cnwch Banana. Boulder up to sustained moves at the crack before gaining a small hollow spike on way to the top. Some good and suspect rock. Adequate small wire/cam protection at the crack.

FA P Tucker P Blackburn 22.7.18


† * Saggy Trousers  E2 5b

The open groove left of Night Boat to Carno. Start from the left end of the leaning block. Climb the groove delicately and boldly to better holds at the break. step up and left pass the shot hole to a slabby finish.

FA P Blackburn P Tucker 22.7.18

 

†  Beyond Madness  E2 5c

The overhanging groove right of Nemandi. Start below the groove. Climb the left-hand side of the short triangular slab to reach the alcove. Launch out up the overhang directly above and make a trying move to gain easier ground. A committing move.

FA P Blackburn  P Tucker 22.7.18


Bwtres y Chwarel


25 Last Tango in Powys F5b  (Page 203 in the guidebook)

This climb has now been equipped with a new lower-off (LO) just above the overhang mentioned in the guidebook, which possibly makes it into a better climb. This LO is also shared with the following new climb, which ascends the fine little groove that can be seen just to the left of the climber in the photo on page 207 in the guidebook:

  

Good Girls Climb Grit  F5b *

The slim groove immediately right of Last Tango in Powys is short but pleasantly diverting.  Start as for Children of a Lesser Gog and, from its first bolt, step left into the groove. At the top, move left to the new lower off above the overhang on Last Tango in Powys.

FA ME Davidson, D Williams 31.8.18

INNOVATION ~ Steep Stone ~ INSPIRATION



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